I've also listened very carefully to the ballasts when they're on and I can't hear any high-pitched buzzing from either of them like you would if the ballasts are being over-driven. However, they change to white after a couple of minutes and stay white with no tints of blue or purple. The thing is my lights glow a little hint of blue when they're initially powered on. Replace your D1S bulbs and you will be amazed at how much better you will see. This is why the older bulbs give off more of a purple color than white or blue. Once the bulbs age, they produce less and less light, because the voltage required to keep the bulb burning gets to a level the ballast cannot support. We'll see.Pal the issue has to do with your bulbs. I've read that the ball/socket for the motor may have come undone. I also have to find out what's causing my lights to bounce when going over rough bumps when I have the housings apart. I'll find some way to add to the collection of before and after pictures when they're done. If they arrive next week, I'll replace them next weekend at my buddy's garage, where it's heated I've just pulled the trigger on a pair of TSX-R's for $50 to replace my DOT Fresnel's, so we'll see if it makes any noticeable improvements. This makes some drives kinda hairy into turns and such - especially on snow or slush covered roads. Yeah, eh?!? As mentioned, my current xenon lows are OK in the near field (~20') but further out, the intensity drops way off, and in the middle of the night at speed, they can't keep up. what comes in some new cars that I think PreciseD paid $60/set for, more of a bowl shape: I heard people (including old guy) were disappointed with DEPO projectors, and swapped in OE single-xenon 2.5". Might as well try to light up the road with a yellow highlighter circle drawn on a piece of cardboard.Īlthough I think Diagnosticator ran 2.5" single-xenon rare e-codes, modded to use B5 S4 parts or something, with cheaper D2S bulb. evo_ski didn't have this with his but it was because they were brand new. Same design used in certain Touareg and Cayenne, maybe more.
Huge upgrade for a couple hundred bucks.Referred to this above, I guess it's up to whoever to decide. I just took out fuse 10 for the leveling motors and no warning light on the dash.
So I ordered some ebay depo headlights and the improvement was phenomenal. I called ecs and they told me that you cannot code xenon to halogen, only from halogen to xenon. I had bixenon headlights in my car and they were so dim it was scary driving at night. I'll post only because I just dealt with this. Not sure why you'd "spend $$$ to change out the ballasts".īut yes, genuine D1S HID bulbs are expensive. IDK what difference it makes that new base-model cars (such as MB CLA) have their halogens (an old technology) in an open reflector, whereas B6 focuses it through a projector/lens. Not sure if that means enough to melt a stock (non-heavy-duty aftermarket) harness, or create too much heat around the bulb. Some have upgraded to H7 65w, which maybe Osram used to make as an H9 on an H7 base, off-road/rallye. It's hard to beat Toyota because not only is Toyota high-end luxury Lexus, but it's Japanese, which has good lighting such as from Koito, and people still use Japanese parts for retrofits, such as from Lexus, Acura, Honda, etc. Single-xenon 2.5" or bi-xenon 3", which is notorious for having bad-shape bowls (not optimized for low-beam) and on top of that, the Al PVD coating burns off. Which HID's do you have, there are multiple versions.